Eighty-five percent of teens get acne. Our dermatologist Dr. Anatoli Freiman discusses acne in teenagers and best approaches to treat back acne outbreaks. Click here to view article.

Did you know that the epidermis (outermost layer of skin) of dark skin absorbs 70% of UV rays, while the epidermis of light skin only absorbs 25%? Five percent of the UV rays that reach the outer epidermis of dark skin go as far as the papillary dermis (where collagen & elastin are found), whereas 3 times that amount (15%) reaches the dermis in a person with lighter skin, resulting in more pronounced signs of skin aging.

I remember the first time I looked in the mirror and thought, “wow, when did this happen?” As if overnight, I started to see things like fine lines and wrinkles, mild sagging in the jawline and a faint darkening under my eyes. I didn’t remember going to sleep looking like that. What happened??

The sad truth, my friends, is that aging happens to all of us. And while we don’t have to like it, we also don’t have to accept it; in fact, we can match what we feel on the inside to what appears on the outside. Together, we can help correct some of this aging nonsense with just a few simple modifications.

Each decade our hormones change, and this is probably the biggest factor in our skincare frustrations. There are, of course, both intrinsic (genetics) and external factors (UV exposure, lifestyle) that contribute to accelerated skin aging. And while no two people are the same, we all share commonality in the aging process.

Women in their 40s and 50s fall into the category of peri-menopausal, which refers to the timeframe (up to 10 years before actual menopause) when estrogen production slows down.

Estrogen production affects some key functions in the skin. It helps regulate the rate of skin cell turnover, or how quickly our skin produces new cells. When our bodies produce less estrogen, it signals to the skin to slow down its cellular turnover process.

This means that dead skin cells are collecting on the surface of the skin, making lines look deeper, brown spots darker and, generally, the skin appears duller, less plump and less youthful overall.

In addition, collagen loss starts to manifest during our 40s, causing wrinkles to appear more prominent. This loss of a very important underlying structure prompts a thinning of the epidermis, which can cause skin to look “crepey”, and may lead to sagginess and neck wattles. We may also develop shadows, blotches and dark under-eye circles as a result of thinning skin and volume loss.

We’re also left with the tell-tale signs of accelerated photo-aging on our faces, arms, hands and legs as those once-darling freckles and brown spots that have accrued from years of sun exposure start to darken. Now that we know the specific skin care issues we face in our 40s and beyond, let’s talk about the key ingredients that can help to correct them.

KEY INGREDIENT: ANTIOXIDANTS

Free radicals can be introduced in many different ways: via the environment in the form of UV radiation or pollutants, or through lifestyle in the form of smoking. These scavenger particles of oxygen start to destroy organic substances (like proteins) in your body and skin. Once the proteins are damaged, the result is oxidation, which is similar to the process of metal rusting or apples browning after being cut. In the skin, free radicals lead to oxidative destruction characterized by loss of collagen, skin wrinkling, and darkening of pigment.

The only way to neutralize free radicals is to employ antioxidants (think vitamins C and E), which act as free radical scavengers. Regardless of how cleanly you eat or how healthy you are, only about 20 percent of antioxidants you ingest orally will make it to your skin; your body will disperse the rest elsewhere. Therefore, you need a strong topical antioxidant to deliver the benefits directly on top of the skin.

KEY INGREDIENTS: GROWTH FACTORS & PEPTIDES

Growth factors are the proteins responsible for rejuvenating skin. Topical growth factors are absorbed into the skin and then trigger a signal cascade to help support proteins in the extra cellular matrix: collagen and elastin.  Peptides, too, help support collagen and elastin.

KEY INGREDIENT: RETINOL

Vitamin A, or retinol, is one of the only vitamins our bodies cannot produce naturally, and yet it is essential to maintaining the integrity of the skin. It plays a key role in the growth, elasticity, strength and renewal of skin tissue. Retinol stimulates cellular turnover, resulting in a refinement of texture as well as a reduction in the appearance of fine lines and flat brown spots or sun freckles.

KEY FEATURE: SPF

When committing to a healthy skin care routine, an SPF of 30 or greater is a necessity. Broad-spectrum sunscreen protects against UVA damage, the primary cause of skin aging, as well as the UVB rays that lead to sunburn.

I also like to add products containing Hyaluronic acid to my daily regime. Hyaluronic acid acts like a sponge, holding up to 1000 times its weight in water! Now that is a great way to add not only volume to the skin, but a gorgeous glow at the same time.

When dealing within medical grade skin care products, I am able to get all of my anti-aging ingredients in my day cream, my night cream and of course my sunscreen. It doesn’t take any longer to apply products that slow down the aging process; it just takes a little knowledge. And that is where we come in. At Toronto Dermatology Centre, we are specialized in knowing which products will give you the most bang for your buck. Our consults are complimentary, and we can help you get started on a great anti-aging routine right away.

 Check out this article from TheCut, “The Best Way to Secretly Get Rid of Your Chin Hair”, exploring women’s complicated relationship to beauty standards and the effort required to meet them, in regards to unwanted hair. Click here!

“During the American Society for Dermatologic Study Annual Meeting, Alastair Carruthers, FRCPC, presented the results of an international, retrospective chart review including 194 patients who were 18 years or older at the time of their first Botox (onabotulinumtoxin-A, Allergan) aesthetic treatment and had at least 5 years’ history of continuous treatment.” Click here to read the full article .

“Although every scar tells a story, it is a tale better spoken by the dermatologist and plastic surgeon who can help to reduce its appearance. To do so, physicians today are using improved protocols in laser treatment and beyond…” Click here to view the rest of the article at Dermatology Times.

In the medical esthetics world, the BBL, also known as IPL, photo facial or photo rejuvenation, has been the gold standard since day one. Due to its unique delivery system, it is able to tackle hyperpigmentation (brown marks) and broken capillaries (red vessels) all in the same treatment. It is easy to stop there, as most clinics do. Good results are what we are aiming for, right? 

But……what if there was something else out there that could tackle all the same concerns, even more maybe, and in the end give GREAT results? Lately I just can’t stop talking about our spectacular addition to the clinic. The Cutera Excel V is cutting edge, versatile, and able to bridge the gap between good and great. This medical grade laser is a cut above the rest.

The Cutera Excel V houses two lasers: a 532 nm wavelength KTP Laser and a 1064nm NdYag laser. Switching back and forth is as simple as touching a button and allows the technician to treat each vessel individually with more strength than the BBL could ever possibly put out. With pre-set starting points for rosacea, veins(both face and body), diffuse reds, Poikiloderma (blotchy sun-damaged necks), pigment, red scars and angiomas for example, we can now treat each vessel or lesion with accurate precision and safety.

The ability to combine our Sciton BBL device with the Excel V lasers gives us the most advanced technology for improving the skin in the way most appropriate for each individual. For example, I may choose to treat flushed red skin with 2-4 sessions with the BBL to clear the overall pink undertones. Perhaps there are visible vessels around the nose, upper cheeks and chin that are too stubborn to yield the effects of the energy from the BBL. I can then transfer the patient to the Excel V for 1-2 sessions to clear the remaining vessels that in the past were unable to completely coagulate and disperse. Now the patient is not just satisfied, he or she is elated with their result. We have gone from good to great.

When it comes to treating veins on the legs, the best treatment for most types of leg veins is still sclerotherapy; a fine needle with a saline-sugar solution is placed into the vein causing it to collapse. However, some veins are just too small to get the needle in, the treatment can be painful and bruising is expected. With the laser, we can treat the smallest of vessels along with larger blue or purple veins as well. Bruising is minimal or non- existent, and discomfort depends on the size of the vessel and area being treated.

Port wine stains were not an issue we attempted to treat with the BBL but the Excel V has a specific setting geared specifically for them. We can treat warts and even toenail or fingernail fungus now. Ok, that may not sound fun, but I am so excited to be able to diversify my abilities. The more options we have, the more individuals we can help. How awesome is that?

No matter what your concern is, if you don’t call us, come in for a complimentary consult, and see what we have to offer, you may be missing out on a great opportunity to finally get rid of whatever pesky lesion, vessel or skin condition that has been keeping you from the perfect look you have always wanted. Check us out at Toronto Dermatology Centre to see how we can help you.

~ Sheri Roselle, Medical Esthetician at Toronto Dermatology Centre

They went with songs to the battle, they were young.
Straight of limb, true of eyes, steady and aglow.

They were staunch to the end against odds uncounted,

They fell with their faces to the foe.

They shall grow not old, as we that are left grow old:

Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn.

At the going down of the sun and in the morning,

We will remember them.

Lest we forget.

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