Category: Our Blog

Antioxidants are our body’s main line of defense in the fight against aging. They team up against disease and counteract the effects of free radicals while combating the aging process. Some of the big and established names are Retinols and Growth Factors, but antioxidants are also important in the war against aging.

Here are a few things about antioxidants that might surprise you:

THEY FIGHT AGING FROM THE INSIDE OUT.

We can’t feel it when free radicals injure our cells, but when it happens, antioxidants go into defence mode in an effort to stop the chain reaction of damaged cells. Over time, without a strong defence, this cellular breakdown can lead to a number of chronic diseases. Antioxidants help to counteract this process.

THEY SUPPORT HEALTHY SKIN.

Common skin concerns like dull, uneven tone and wrinkles can all be improved with the use of an antioxidant serum. Add an antioxidant serum to your daily skin care regimen or mix the serum with your sunscreen to naturally brighten your skin and add an extra layer of protection.

Try SkinMedica’s Vitamin C+E Complex, which contains a combination of vitamins C and E in providing antioxidant protection all day long to help prevent free radical damage to the skin.

Skinceuticals C E Ferulic or Phloretin serums contain the world’s most potent Vitamin C (along with vitamin E and Ferulic or Phloretin) which not only protects the skin up to 8 times more effectively that sunscreen alone, but they will protect you from indoor lighting as well and can stay in the skin for up to 3 days at a time.

THEY FIT INTO A HEALTHY DIET.

Studies show that there’s more to protecting your skin than applying topical products: eating a diet high in antioxidants can help to ward off the signs of aging from within. The foods you consume directly affect your skin as well as your body, so eating well and looking your best go hand-in-hand.

Eat well-balanced meals with a complex mix of antioxidants—think vegetables, fruits, whole grains and legumes—to round out your diet.

THEY COUNTERACT BAD HABITS.

Smoking, air pollution, excessive alcohol consumption and even eating deep-fried foods can promote free radical formation within your body. Air pollution has been linked to cataracts, skin cancer and wrinkles, while cigarette smoking has been linked to gum disease, heart problems and cancer.

It’s important to remember that while antioxidants provide an important defense system against free radical damage, they do not negate the effects of destructive habits. Avoiding these habits in the first place is always optimal.

THEY’RE DIVERSE.

These vitamins, minerals and other nutrients are mostly naturally occurring substances and often have specific functions. For example, lycopene (found in tomatoes) helps defend the skin against sun damage. Certain antioxidants (like isothiocyanates, found in broccoli and cauliflower) battle pollutants like nicotine, while vitamin E helps prevent wrinkle formation and works to stop the cellular damage that causes skin cancer.

Be sure to avoid zeroing in on one antioxidant function—incorporating a wide array of antioxidants into your diet and skin care routine is the best way to achieve a more rounded, overall protection.

So you can see why I think antioxidants are so important, both on the inside and on the out! With the abilities to strengthen, repair, brighten skin and even stimulate collagen, these little guys are miracle workers for our skin. Even those people as early as in their twenties can benefit from the addition of antioxidants to their home care regime. Where to start? Let us at help you choose the best serums or creams to protect and repair your skin. You are never too young to start.

It isn’t all that common that I run across patients who have decided to invest in their own “home lasers” or devices, but whenever I do, I worry about the investment they have made and the chances of what can go wrong. In the past few weeks I spoke to a woman who invested in a home version of an intense pulse light (IPL) device to stimulate collagen and reduce redness. I spoke to a few people who have purchased the NoNo hair removal device as well. It is hard for me not to shake my head; because I know that the average person doesn’t understand the mechanisms of how actual lasers or optical energy machines work. Therefore they cannot understand the degree of complexity it takes to actually achieve the goal they purchased the device for.

Furthermore, an IPL or BBL (broad band light) device needs to be operated by a professional. I went to school to become a medical esthetician, a trained laser technician. I have had patients of Middle Eastern decent using a device at home meant for light skin. They can’t understand why they got burned, why they now have post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and potentially permanent scarring. And other patients will invest hundreds of dollars thinking their device will stimulate enough collagen to decrease or remove wrinkles, because that is what the company has touted.

Think about it. If it were mandatory at a clinic to wear safety goggles that are wavelength approved for each device, under Heath Canada or the Laser and Safety Act, then would it not make sense that something is amiss with the piddly home care units currently being sold? How can you compare the strength of a clinical laser, which cost between $70,000 – $200,000 to a $300-$400 home device that isn’t even strong enough to require safety goggles?

Due to the low wavelength, the treatment is shallow, and is therefore the reason people are getting burned, left with blisters, or worse, pigmentation on their skin or even scarring. It isn’t because the device is so strong; it is because it is too shallow. They don’t treat deep enough to treat the problem, but act with still enough light energy to destroy the surface area. For light skinned patients, the risks are a bit lower, and efficacy leaves much to be desired.

The NoNo is used for hair removal and is advertised to death on TV. It is not a laser and doesn’t pretend to be. However it does have the nerve to compare itself to one. Similar to a depilatory, it burns the hairs off. While a depilatory (think Neat or Nair) is a chemical burn, the NoNo uses thermal heat to burn the hair. In both cases, the hair is burned off just under the surface of the skin, having no effect on the root (the real target!). By all means it will last longer than shaving, but that is only because shaving slices the hair just above the surface of the skin.

The hair may eventually become mildly finer, similar to waxing done over time. However, burns, hyperpigmentation, scarring and aversion to how often it needs to be done (about 4 times a week) are definite cons for this device.

We are all human. Let’s be honest, shortcuts and bargains are in our DNA. But for me, there are some things that are above the shortcut. I wouldn’t go to a discount place to have eye surgery, and I wouldn’t put a “do- it yourself” engine in my car. With the knowledge and experience I have with lasers and other professional versions of the home devices out there, the best and safest advice I can offer is don’t attempt this at home! No bargain is worth permanent scarring, or throwing your money down the drain.  Remember those smooth talkers are just actors getting paid to sell an item. You know better. Do your research and make wise choices, trust a professional with professional medical-grade equipment (not a hair salon!). If its too good to be true….

~ Sheri Roselle, Medical Esthetician at Toronto Dermatology Centre

The summer season can do a number on your child’s sensitive skin. Dr. Anatoli Freiman, Dermatologist at the Toronto Dermatology Centre, and Chair of the Canadian Dermatology Association Sun Protection Program, reviews some of the most common, serious, and crazy skin-related problems kids can face, along with how to help prevent and treat them. You can read the article here.

I tend to talk a lot about anti aging. While some patients suffer from acne, rosacea or a variety of different dermatitis conditions, everyone, at some point starts to deal with the effects of aging skin. Like the aforementioned skin conditions, aging skin can affect us physically, but also mentally, socially and emotionally.

In the ongoing pursuit of ageless beauty, patients often seek the veritable next best thing: effectual treatments that offer real results with the added convenience of minimal downtime. Today’s cosmetic procedures aim to achieve nuance and subtlety over a decidedly “done” look, in line with the patient-driven trend for a more radiant and refreshed overall appearance. And while we’ve yet to see the perfect no-downtime procedure, science continues to evolve, developing advanced treatments for the face, skin and body.

The way we evaluate facial aging has changed in recent years, prompting a shift in blame away from skin laxity as the primary cause of facial aging. We now recognize that the deep fat compartments in certain areas of the face atrophy, lessening support in the lower face and causing a gaunt, aged appearance.

By supplementing the facelifts of yesteryear with modern volume restoration, physicians are better able to maintain the patient’s innate facial characteristics without altering their features past the point of recognition. The trick is to avoid overfilling—which often yields an unnatural, “chipmunk-like” result—and to include mid-cheek and temple filling, thereby creating an overall volume correction versus treating one area in isolation from the rest of the face.

It’s important to remember that fillers are not one-size-fits-all, and there is no one foolproof filler designed for every face. Patients should undergo a thorough consultation with their dermatologist to receive a customized injectable treatment plan.

When it comes to treating laxity, wrinkles and dyspigmentation, topical skin care products provide an important addition to in-office procedures, as they prime and prepare the skin to achieve optimal results, as well as prolong the effects of in- office procedures.

I’m a big advocate of growth factors for their ability to reverse the effects of sun damage and chronologic aging—two factors known to contribute to the degeneration of skin cells over time. SkinMedica’s TNS Essential Serum contains fibroblast growth factors, which promote collagen production within the dermis, along with l-ergothioneine, an amino acid recognized for its ability to repair breaks in DNA in skin cells as caused by UV exposure. ZO’s Growth Factor Serum is also a favorite of mine, providing both growth factors and pure, stable retinol on a nightly basis.

Retinol, too, offers powerful—and proven—photorejuvenation benefits. While it is an undisputed leader for its ability to transform skin texture and tone, retinol has also earned a reputation for inducing irritation in many individuals. That’s why new breakthroughs in topical delivery mechanisms show such promise; they not only improve the penetration of topical ingredients like retinol into the dermal layers, but they also improve tolerance in those patients prone to irritation from ingredients such as tretinoin, a form of retinol found in many prescription products.

For example, the technology found in SkinMedica’s new Retinol Complex series allows the formulas to penetrate and be transformed into tretinoin within the dermis, minimizing side effects like flaking, redness and irritation. Without the aforementioned pitfalls so common in many retinol products, this gentle-yet-effective formula offers a solution for patients prone to sensitivity, and encourages routine use. Adding antioxidants and hyaloronic acid in such products like ZO’s Renewal Creme, not only buffers the harsher effects of retinol, but adds protection and hydration to our hydration-deprived North American skin.

While no skin care breakthrough can delete the need for a healthy lifestyle, topical skin care and smart lifestyle choices act as partners in achieving beautiful skin. When patients sleep well, stay hydrated, consume healthy, antioxidant-rich foods, minimize stressors and most importantly, avoid smoking and sun exposure, they make an important investment in the skin’s health and appearance.

If you are a parent, encourage your children early in life to protect their skin. Discuss with them the dangers of tanning salon use and to avoid them at all costs. If you are at the stage where you are beginning to think about the future of your skin, then Toronto Dermatology Centre’s professionals can help you along the way.

~ Sheri Roselle, Medical Esthetician at Toronto Dermatology Centre

By now most people have heard of fractionated resurfacing lasers. With the ability to target and correct acne scars, surgical scars, stretch marks, pigmentary concerns, reduce fine lines and wrinkles and tighten skin, there are few people who wouldn’t benefit from the capabilities of such a laser.

While there are several fractionated resurfacing lasers on the market, Toronto Dermatology Centre has been working with the Sciton Profractional laser since our doors first opened. Choosing the most capable, top of the line ablative resurfacing laser has allowed us the opportunity to correct skin problems for our patients over and over again. With a wavelength that is more water absorbent than any other laser on the market, we are able to stimulate more collagen with less treatments.

The Profractional laser is an ablative scanning device that works by destroying cells in the dermal layer of the skin. The skin’s natural defense mechanism kicks in to create new cells. The new cells are not scarred and are not depleted of volume or nutrients, and therefore are full and healthy. By fractionally destroying cells, the remaining cells work to create the new skin which is formed in the matrix. Since the treated area is fractionally scanned, the downtime is very minimal, about 2-5 days.

While it takes about a month for the new cells to reach the outer layers of the skin, and improvement can be seen at this point after each treatment, I find that results are more visibly apparent about 2-3 months after each treatment, with improvement continuing up to 6 months after every service. The amount of treatments needed for best results varies depending on the severity of the condition. Generally I suggest a series of 3-6 for optimal results. The Profractional laser treatments can be done as soon as a month apart, but can certainly be done effectively with a longer stretch of time between appointments.

Although there are few contraindications, it us always best to consult with a medical esthetician to be sure the Profractional laser is right for your concerns. With the ability to aerate the skin, not trapping in heat like non-ablative lasers and not adding additional heat like most traditional lasers, this device is safe for all skin types, from pale to dark, without concern for hyperpigmentation. Unlike its counterparts, the Profractional laser has the ability to add heat for lighter skin tones if tightening and volume is the goal. This option is not available in any other laser.

Our lasers are and always have been the ultimate in technology. We strive to help our patients achieve their goals. Our Sciton Profractional laser is a big part of why our patients are so happy with their skin. Come in now and see how we can help you with yours.

Photo credit: sciton.com

~Sheri Roselle, Medical Esthetician at Toronto Dermatology Centre

Check out the terrific new website recently launched by the Acne and Rosacea Society of Canada. Our very own national leader in acne and rosacea research and treatment Dr. Benjamin Barankin was invited to be on the Medical Advisory Committee along with some of the best dermatologists in the country. Check out the useful information on diagnosing and treating acne, impact of acne, types of acne, causes of acne, and when to see a dermatologist. Visit the website: here.

Based on the National Rosacea study in 2012, the following is the top 10 rank order of factors that aggravate rosacea according to patients:

1. Sun exposure

2. Emotional stress

3. Hot weather

4. Wind

5. Heavy exercise

6. Alcohol consumption

7. Hot baths

8. Cold weather

9. Spicy foods

10. Humidity

 

The following is the rank order of signs and symptoms in patients with rosacea (from National Rosacea Society, 2013):

1. Flushing

2. Persistent redness

3. Bumps

4. Pimples

5. Visible blood vessels

6. Burning or stinging

7. Dry appearance

8. Raised red patches

9. Swelling

Over the past several years, hydroquinone has become a controversial skin-care ingredient for topical use. What is known for certain is that hydroquinone is a strong inhibitor of melanin production and for over 50 years has been established as the most effective ingredient for reducing and potentially eliminating brown skin discolorations on skin often referred to as sun damage,  melasma, or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

In different concentrations hydroquinone inhibits or prevents skin from making the enzyme responsible for triggering melanin, the chief pigment that gives skin its colour. What is confusing to the consumer is the exaggerated information about possible negative side effects from using hydroquinone products. A closer look at the research indicates problematic skin reactions are rare and, more often than not, minor.

The most startling risk is a skin disorder called ochronosis which is a bluing discoloration of the skin. Although that’s scary stuff, it’s important to keep in mind that with millions of gallons of hydroquinone used over the past 50 years, only a handful of ochronosis cases have been directly associated with using hydroquinone. What’s more, these cases have been a result of long term use of high concentrations, or of using hydroquinone products that have been laced with dangerous ingredients.

Hydroquinone-based products were banned in South Africa years ago where the most severe problems occurred. However, hydroquinone products in South Africa and other African countries were found to also contain mercury and glucocorticoids, among other caustic and illegal contaminants, which is believed by many to be the cause of the serious side effects seen.

Countries that are part of the European Union have banned hydroquinone chiefly on the basis of these reports. This ban is frustrating to many because when properly formulated and used for appropriate periods of time, hydroquinone is not a harmful ingredient and there is no substantiated research proving otherwise.

Questions concerning hydroquinone in terms of it being a carcinogen have also received some attention. Increased cancer incidence has been shown when hydroquinone was fed or injected into rats in large doses, though with topical use there has been no research showing it to be mutagenic on humans or animals. In reality, there is abundant research showing hydroquinone to be safe and extremely effective.

Interestingly, hydroquinone happens to be a potent antioxidant and there is even research showing that workers who handle pure hydroquinone actually have a lower incidence of cancer than the population as a whole. Ironically, plant extracts such as Mitracarpus scaber (madder) extract, Uva ursi (bearberry) extract, Morus bombycis (mulberry), Morus alba (white mulberry), and Broussonetia papyrifera (paper mulberry) touted as being natural skin lightening agents actually break down into hydroquinone when absorbed into skin, which explains why they have a positive effect. Another natural alternative is arbutin which also, you guessed it, breaks down into hydroquinone in skin.

Whether or not you consider using hydroquinone in a skin-care product is of course up to you. What is abundantly clear is that hydroquinone is a well-researched ingredient, used for many years around the world, incredibly effective for its intended purpose, and that no other skin lightening ingredient compares to its effectiveness.

Rest assured that if one of Toronto Dermatology Centre’s amazing dermatologists recommends hydroquinone, they are offering a safe and effective option to get rid of hyperpigmentation on your skin!

~ Sheri Roselle, Medical Esthetician at Toronto Dermatology Centre